Teoria de padaria

“Mermão…” berrou o gordo alegre, na roda dos amigos na padaria às 6:30 da manhã, sábado, naquela gritaria desagradável, mas engraçada, de concurso pneumático de macho carioca. “…O que você não aprende em casa, você aprende na rua…e a rua é o pior lugar para você aprender qualquer coisa!” Tomei o meu café em silêncio […]

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Memórias de Colonia

A photo essay on autumn and the present perfect in the timeless Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay by Ricky Toledano

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Gentrification: problem or progress?

I suspect that whomever can answer that question of whether gentrification is progress or problem shall answer all questions, because it reverts to a much more profound human challenge.

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The Port[als] of Buenos Aires

The words for port and door are quite the same in Latin languages. Actually, it is hardly a stretch for English speakers to grasp the relevant vocabules for a place of entry and exit. In the case of Buenos Aires, however, I found poetry in how the very doors of the city reflected the amazing […]

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The Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires

  As one of the two most visited cemetaries in the world, it could only become yet another cliché to follow Paris. However, I don’t have the unending struggle — either internal or external — against cliché that bothers others to insanity. I think I might have more pressing fights to deal with. And it […]

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The Curse of Saraswati

If I look irritated, it is because I was. It is in these moments of disappointment, however, when we learn the most.

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the Lodi Garden

It may be the way the air chills softly under great neem trees, cackling with parakeets, or the eagles that swoop calmly over the roses as the sun sets. Bamboos create archways between fields dotted with the crumbling stone of tombs from empires past. The scent of jasmine lifts the air from the smell of […]

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The Portals of Chandni Chowk

According to the Law that goes by many names, including Ganesha, every doorway requires something to be left behind and something new to be accepted. This is the human dilemma, and it is one that is not getting any easier as there are ever more of us in this world, all unsatisfied, desiring progress and […]

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Chicago stories

The skyline might have changed. Millennium Park certainly had not existed. But there still so many things I remember about my hometown, even after more than twenty years abroad. Returning awakens the memories of how the summertime smells of cut grass and coming rain. Pizza. Those cement sidewalk stamps at the corners just before the […]

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