the Lodi Garden

It may be the way the air chills softly under great neem trees, cackling with parakeets, or the eagles that swoop calmly over the roses as the sun sets. Bamboos create archways between fields dotted with the crumbling stone of tombs from empires past. The scent of jasmine lifts the air from the smell of […]

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The Portals of Chandni Chowk

According to the Law that goes by many names, including Ganesha, every doorway requires something to be left behind and something new to be accepted. This is the human dilemma, and it is one that is not getting any easier as there are ever more of us in this world, all unsatisfied, desiring progress and […]

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Chicago stories

The skyline might have changed. Millennium Park certainly had not existed. But there still so many things I remember about my hometown, even after more than twenty years abroad. Returning awakens the memories of how the summertime smells of cut grass and coming rain. Pizza. Those cement sidewalk stamps at the corners just before the […]

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The Logic of Faith

I have probably already supplied you with enough information to reinforce your belief that such a pilgrimage is yet another pointless act of religious craziness. But I would not be so quick to draw your sharp weapon of logic. You might discover it is much blunter than you had imagined.

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The Royal Portuguese Reading Room | Real Gabinete Português de Leitura

It is not exactly on the main axis of tourism of Rio de Janeiro. For that matter, it is not even easily placed on the axis of tourism for visitors spending a day hiking among the many attractions in Rio’s Centro between Cinelândia and the newly fashioned port area of Praça Mauá. The Real Gabinete […]

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Urban art | Arte de rua – Rio de Janeiro

I’ve always said that I am not one for museums. There is something about objects extracted from their context that bore me, failing to capture my attention | Sempre falei que não gosto de museus: vendo um monte de obras extraídas dos respetivos contextos me da um tédio

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Other Carnivals

The candombe tradition of Montevideo, Uruguay may not be so well-known as other Carnivals, but it might just be one of the most authentic.
photos and text by Nacho Hammad

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Carnaval – Rio de Janeiro

Já gostei mais de Carnaval. Já fiz tudo que eu tinha direito de fazer na maior festa popular. Mesmo assim, não resisti pelo menos um bloco querido: a tradicionalíssima BANDA DA CONCEIÇÃO, no bucólico morro da Zona Portuária.

I used to love Carnaval.  I’ve had more than my fill of them over the years, but I decided to go to at least one of my most beloved street parties: the very traditional BANDA DA CONCEIÇÃO, on one of the oldest hilltops in Rio de Janeiro.

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Never say never: Goa

I had travelled to the other side of the world and then some, only to find myself on my street again, as if I had arrived right back in my historic, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa in Rio de Janeiro. But I was not in Brazil. I was on vacation and in the capital of Goa

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