The Portals of Chandni Chowk

I call it the Law of Ganesha, whereby passing through any doorway requires something to be left behind and something new to be accepted. This is the human dilemma, and it is one that is not getting any easier as there are ever more of us in this world, all unsatisfied, desiring progress and development […]

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Walking the Old City

Gujarat has been at the crossroads of civilizations for longer than memory. Its most iconic city, Ahmedabad, still holds its unique architectural mix of Jainism, Hinduism and Islam. The comparison was inevitable: the old city was much cleaner and more preserved than my beloved Chandni Chowk in Delhi. Then there was the woodwork and the […]

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The Cosmos of Kerala

Cosmopolitan, before the word was invented by the ancient Greeks, who had already known of Kerala.

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Journey to Cuetzalan

Rain brought back memories that weren’t actually mine, including how my father ate fried ants in his native sierra.

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Chicago stories

How some things change and other things never change strikes me every time I return to the streets of my hometown.

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Carnaval | Rio de Janeiro

Minha predileta sempre será a BANDA DA CONCEIÇÃO | My favorite will always be Banda da Conceição

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Memórias de Colonia

A photo essay on autumn and the present perfect in the timeless Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay by Ricky Toledano

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Gentrification: problem or progress?

I suspect that whomever can answer that question of whether gentrification is progress or problem shall answer all questions, because it reverts to a much more profound human challenge.

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