Walking the Old City

Gujarat has been at the crossroads of civilizations for longer than memory. Its most iconic city, Ahmedabad, still holds its unique architectural mix of Jainism, Hinduism and Islam. The comparison was inevitable: the old city was much cleaner and more preserved than my beloved Chandni Chowk in Delhi. Then there was the woodwork and the […]

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Teoria de padaria

“Mermão…” berrou o gordo alegre, na roda dos amigos na padaria às 6:30 da manhã, sábado, naquela gritaria desagradável, mas engraçada, de concurso pneumático de macho carioca. “…O que você não aprende em casa, você aprende na rua…e a rua é o pior lugar para você aprender qualquer coisa!” Tomei o meu café em silêncio […]

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Memórias de Colonia

A photo essay on autumn and the present perfect in the timeless Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay by Ricky Toledano

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Gentrification: problem or progress?

I suspect that whomever can answer that question of whether gentrification is progress or problem shall answer all questions, because it reverts to a much more profound human challenge.

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The Port[als] of Buenos Aires

The words for port and door are quite the same in Latin languages. Actually, it is hardly a stretch for English speakers to grasp the relevant vocabules for a place of entry and exit. In the case of Buenos Aires, however, I found poetry in how the very doors of the city reflected the amazing […]

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The Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires

  As one of the two most visited cemetaries in the world, it could only become yet another cliché to follow Paris. However, I don’t have the unending struggle — either internal or external — against cliché that bothers others to insanity. I think I might have more pressing fights to deal with. And it […]

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the Lodhi Garden

It may be the way the air chills softly under great neem trees, cackling with parakeets, or the eagles that swoop calmly over the roses as the sun sets. Bamboos create archways between fields dotted with the crumbling stone of tombs from empires past. The scent of jasmine lifts the air from the smell of […]

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The Portals of Chandni Chowk

According to the Law that goes by many names, including Ganesha, every doorway requires something to be left behind and something new to be accepted. This is the human dilemma, and it is one that is not getting any easier as there are ever more of us in this world, all unsatisfied, desiring progress and […]

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Looking through the Chagall Windows

Properly called the America Windows, they are what everyone in Chicago has called the Chagall Windows for as long as I can remember, and I was born some years before they were installed in the Art Institute of Chicago in 1977. A tribute to a city and a nation from the great Russian-French-Jewish artist and […]

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