Walking the Old City

Gujarat has been at the crossroads of civilizations for longer than memory. Its most iconic city, Ahmedabad, still holds its unique architectural mix of Jainism, Hinduism and Islam. The comparison was inevitable: the old city was much cleaner and more preserved than my beloved Chandni Chowk in Delhi. Then there was the woodwork and the […]

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Gentrification: problem or progress?

I suspect that whomever can answer that question of whether gentrification is progress or problem shall answer all questions, because it reverts to a much more profound human challenge.

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The Port[als] of Buenos Aires

The words for port and door are quite the same in Latin languages. Actually, it is hardly a stretch for English speakers to grasp the relevant vocabules for a place of entry and exit. In the case of Buenos Aires, however, I found poetry in how the very doors of the city reflected the amazing […]

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The Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires

  As one of the two most visited cemetaries in the world, it could only become yet another cliché to follow Paris. However, I don’t have the unending struggle — either internal or external — against cliché that bothers others to insanity. I think I might have more pressing fights to deal with. And it […]

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What I do remember…

 It is a simple test, but a pertinent one after visiting any exhibition – but it was profound after the Kochi-Muziris International Biennale The fact that I remembered anything at all was surprising. I avoid most contemporary art, especially conceptual art, a category for which I have a strong opinion that is hard for me […]

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The Portals of Chandni Chowk

According to the Law that goes by many names, including Ganesha, every doorway requires something to be left behind and something new to be accepted. This is the human dilemma, and it is one that is not getting any easier as there are ever more of us in this world, all unsatisfied, desiring progress and […]

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Looking through the Chagall Windows

Properly called the America Windows, they are what everyone in Chicago has called the Chagall Windows for as long as I can remember, and I was born some years before they were installed in the Art Institute of Chicago in 1977. A tribute to a city and a nation from the great Russian-French-Jewish artist and […]

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Congo Baroque | O Congo Barroco

The religious syncretism and the tradition of a culture, the simplicity in the details of the robes, the saturated contrasts of skin with the texture of  vibrant fabrics translated into an authentic aesthetic wealth | Foi o sincretismo religioso e a tradição de uma cultura, a simplicidade nos detalhes das vestes, os contrastes saturados de pele com as texturas dos tecidos pujantes me traduziram uma autêntica riqueza estética.

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The Stuccadore Peon

“Do you know why you do not like conceptual art? It is because you know how to solve problems with your hands. You have the means to create plastically, visually. If you only had concepts, you would write.”

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Urban art | Arte de rua – Rio de Janeiro

I’ve always said that I am not one for museums. There is something about objects extracted from their context that bore me, failing to capture my attention | Sempre falei que não gosto de museus: vendo um monte de obras extraídas dos respetivos contextos me da um tédio

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